It’s been long awaited for me and for a few of my valued readers, so here it finally is. My review of an AmScope stereo microscope with simul-focal feature, the SM-4TPZ-FRL-3M! Note that I already had the stand, camera, and light, so I pretty much picked up just the head on special order to make this setup on my own. No need to spend unnecessarily, right? We like deals here, so that’s the way I went.
If you need to look at something that’s anything BUT on a slide, then a stereo microscope is your tool of choice for the job. Just about anything you want to look at can be viewed with this kind of a microscope, so the possibilities are absolutely endless!
So this AmScope stereo microscope head itself is essentially the exact same thing as the rest of the SM stereo microscope line, except that instead of using a shutter pin on the left hand side of the head to divert an ocular tube from the right eyepiece up to the trinocular port, it actually has light sent to all three ports.
AmScope Stereo Microscope Model “SM-4TPZ-FRL-3M”
It’s a bit confusing that they call it the “simul-focal” head, because the trinocular port doesn’t have a large enough adjustment of its own to help bring the camera into focus at the same point as the eyepieces (remember, the eyepieces it comes with are 10x, while the camera operates at about 20x, so they don’t focus simultaneously). It really just chops off one step from the process of moving from the eyepieces to the camera, which would be adjusting the shutter control–you still have to refocus for one or the other. A slight disappointment in my book, but as long as you’re aware of this prior to purchase, it isn’t too bad. A fully adjustable trinocular port on top would be much more beneficial to this AmScope stereo microscope setup. It does help though, as you won’t have to refocus the microscope as far to switch between the two–a great time saver, especially if using this SM-4TPZ-FRL-3M package to teach others to use the system.
Either way, the configuration I’ve created to review today includes the DAW, which is the double arm boom stand, the FRL8-A, which is an 8 watt fluorescent ring light with adapter, and the MU300, USB 2.0 3 megapixel microscope camera. This it with the special ordered SM745TP, which is the simul-focal head. Note that they do not list this up on the website, so if you only want the microscope head itself from this AmScope stereo microscope package, you may have to contact them to request it. If you don’t have any of the equipment, then the SM-4TPZ-FRL-3M as linked to all over this review is what you’ll want to pick up, as it’s all inclusive.
The light itself is akin to what you see in most garages–a ring tube with a white light. It does get hot after a while, so be careful when operating this AmScope stereo microscope. LED ring lights are good for their longevity without needing replacment bulbs, however when they do go out, they really can’t be easily replaced, like the bulbs can on this ring light. I prefer having one of these on hand as a backup in case anything happens with my LED lights, as the FRL8B is the replacement bulb, so I won’t ever be without light while doing a replacement, exchange, or waiting on a new LED ring light to be sent to me.
The camera I’ve gone over in great lengths and details in multiple posts, so I won’t bog this one down with it. You can check that out here if interested in more details on it: MU300 (with the traditional SM-4TZ-FOR-3M review)
The stand is probably one of the most solid stands I’ve used from one of the usual sellers I review quite often. It’s a whopping 60 lbs shipped, which is designed to counterbalance the 15 lb microscope head when extended at the full 30″ arm length. So you can expect stability, just also expect a very heavy set of two packages if you order this AmScope stereo microscope (one has the head and accessories, the other is the base). It’s solid steel, so it really won’t be going anywhere anytime soon, even through a heavily abusive use cycle.
The arm itself has several clamping levers to lock it into place to prevent movement during use, but you can also unlock them to move the arm in manners that the single arm stand cannot–particularly tilting the head. Although only 1 head lock screw is included in the box, so be careful when doing this, but if you have a need to point the head towards the wall where the boom arm is pointing, or angle it back towards the base itself, you can do that–simply unlock the front lever, make the adjustment, and lock it back down. You can also rotate it along the boom arm axis by loosening an allen screw where the L-joint meets the arm, positioning it, then tightening it back up. Again, be careful if your head isn’t well secured–dropping this expensive head will likely dislodge the prism or misalign it. So be sure to take care of your SM-4TPZ-FRL-3M to prevent any disappointing accidents!
Onto the head of the AmScope stereo microscope, which is the truly special part of the setup. While I really, really wish the trinocular port was more adjustable for tube length, having the light travelling to all three ports does make the transition between eyepieces and cameras a little smoother with the movement that it does have. It’s probably possible to find longer channel to fix the adjustable port, or have one machined, to create a truly simul-focal microscope head, rather than just one with light to all three ports and close to simultaneous focus, but not messing with the shutter does have it’s convenience. The light is split 70% to the eyepieces, 30% to the trinocular port, so I do recommend adjusting your camera’s exposure time setting up a bit to help compensate for the lower light in the SM-4TPZ-FRL-3M.
The optics themselves work exactly like the other SM heads–7x – 45x is the zoom range with the head by itself, and expands out to 3.5x – 90x with the other Barlows the package includes. I tend to stick between 3.5x and 45x on my unit, since I use this mainly for reworking circuit boards, but the higher range will help if you engrave or have particle matter you want to inspect for any reason. As always, the more magnification you use, the less working distance you have, and vice versa, so be sure that you have room for your hands, tools, and samples under the AmScope stereo microscope unit.
Quality wise, I found no difference between the images I gathered from my regular SM head versus my simul-focal head. If anything, the light is slightly dimmer in the simul-focal head, since the light is now 35%/35% instead of 50%/50%, but the light was already quite bright before, so I find it a little pleasant that the light isn’t as intense and harmful to the eyes.
If wanting to check out this AmScope stereo microscope setup for yourself, feel free to head on over and pick one up! It’s certainly worthwhile to have to play with, especially if you plan on using a camera quite often. I’d recommend it for camera users specifically, however if you don’t have a need for a camera frequently, you may be better off simply using a traditional head without the extra cost from having the simul-focal feature.
You can pick up (or get more information about) either one from here right away:
SM-4TPZ-FRL-3M (Simul-Focal) || SM-4TZ-FRL-3M (Traditional)
As always, leave me any comments, questions, or concerns! I respond to everything, and can’t wait to hear from you!
I was on the Amscope site and while perusing the SM models, I discovered the ZM series which apparently, from my various web searches, has been available for about two years. However I have yet to find a single review on any of the ZM models. Some of the attractive features of many ZM models are extremely wide field of view, 14″ working distance and claim an objective zoom of 18x or even 22x. But really I suppose the zoom is really a .7-4.5x and are adding a .3 Barlow … How do they calculate the zoom ratio? And does this spec make sense: Eyepiece: 30mm extreme widefield WH10X/22 and WH25X/12? What is the 30mm referring to?
Do you have any knowledge you might be able to share with us on this series?
Another question, are there any disadvantages to having focusable eyepieces (ZM-4TNW3)? And I noticed that Amscope website is cheaper than amazon by $100 on this model.
Thank you for your reply.
Hmm, that’s a good point Mike. I don’t know why I haven’t reviewed a ZM setup yet, but I do have one here already. Bit of an oversight on my part, huh?
Anyway, their site is a bit confusing when it comes to all of their stereo microscope specifications. The working distance in a stereo microscope has an inverse relationship to the magnification being used. So, by claiming at 14″ working distance, they mean (and should clarify) that you can achieve that working distance when using the minimum magnification setting of the configuration they are advertising. So basically, you only get the impressive 14″ working distance when you are using 2x magnification (0.67x setting on the objective, 0.3x Barlow lens, 10x eyepieces).
The objective on the ZM series is written wrong in several listings of theirs. I’ve seen it up to .7x – 4.5x, down to .35x-9x, etc. But it’s supposed to be listed as .67x – 4.5x. That’s the difference between the ZM and SM models–that 0.03x magnification on the objective range. Because of that small difference on the objective, and that there is a 0.3x Barlow available, the ZM model can get all the way down to 2x, which gives it that working distance and a larger field of view than the cheaper SM counterpart.
For the eyepieces, the 30mm refers to the size of the eyepiece itself. The ZM and SM models both use 30mm eyepieces. The first number is the magnification (10x or 25x in your description), and the second number is supposed to be the aperture on the end of the eyepiece (22mm, 12mm, respectively in your description). Generally, higher magnification eyepieces have a smaller aperture on them as they have a more limited area where your eye can be placed to capture the focused image from the eyepiece.
For calculating the magnification on the unit, it all follows the basic formula of multiply all of the magnifying elements together. It’s eyepiece times objective, then times any Barlow lenses installed on the unit. Without any Barlows, it has a 10x eyepiece setup and 0.67x to 4.5x magnification range. So 6.7x – 45x. Barlows extend it down to a total of 2x, and a high total of 90x. Eyepieces are then used to take it up further–20x eyepieces up to 180x, and 25x eyepieces up to 225x.
Focusable eyepieces aren’t too critical for stereo microscopes, to be honest with you. They’re a nice feature to have, and are especially good if you have eyes of differing strengths like I do, or wear glasses, but the magnification on these is fairly low in the scope of all microscopy. Focusing can be completely achieved using just the focusing rack, so they aren’t necessary at all.
Also, another tip that might be helpful–when using the very high magnifications on these units (150x-225x), you have to be EXTREMELY close to your sample to focus. Sometimes, the rack doesn’t let you move far enough to get in focus. If this happens to you, remove your microscope head and focusing rack, and flip it upside down, then reinstall. The focusing rack will then be able to safely hold your head and travel down far enough to focus.
Hope this helps!
I have a special situation for which I am hoping the simul-focal feature can be the answer.
I need to view an object and have about a 1mm FOV showing on my MU300 at any one time (current scope is SM-2TZZ). The object can only be viewed AND LIT from a 2.5 mm hole that is about 25mm above the object. With these restrictions, there is no way to use side lighting, the light needs to be co-axial (and on center line) with the optic path that is viewing it. I am hoping that the answer would be to shine my 180 watt fiber optic head down the eyepiece hole (using a simul-focal scope) of the same ocular side that the trinocular port sees thru. I know the intensity will be greatly reduced vs direct side lighting, but does this sound like it is worth pursuing?
Hey Dale, I’m really sorry for the lack of a reply. I’ve been away from my computer for a bit, so I haven’t been able to get to you and reply.
To be completely honest, I don’t know if that will work or not. I would think that doing so would probably wash out the image coming up from the objective. Metallurgical microscopes do what you’re looking to do (provide coaxial lighting to a sample that shines down the objective AND back up through the objective), but they are designed to use mirrors to prevent the paths of light from becoming completely washed out or eliminated. If you already have the equipment by now, I would suggest moving your MU300 into an eyepiece tube and shining the light straight down your trinocular port. That would be easier to align the light to, and the camera functions the same in either port.
Hope this helps! Again, my apologies for the late reply to your comment. Thanks for reading!
Thanks, probably good for lateness. I decided to see if I could modify my scope with a beamsplitter by replacing the 45 degree mirror prisim at the bottom of the trinocular tube with a beam splitter cube I got on Ebay for $15 and I cut a big hole in the side of my scope so I could shine a high intensity LED into the cube. As you surmised there was a lot of washing out. However I was able ultimately to achieve success by effectively shining a 5mm colminated LED beam down 1/2 of the left optic path, where it reflects off the object and the image comes back up the other half of the left optic path. I get a 750um FOV of pretty decent pixels in the lower left of my CCD image at 6 microns per pixel. I am looking through a 3 mm hole to my object 20 mm down this hole. (I used a 10×20 eyepiece to culminate LED and I added a couple of what I call parallel light tubes 5mm dia to try to keep out and return as isolated as I could)
Make that 0.6 microns per pixel.